Name / Cosplay Handle: Atty / AdventTraitor

Astrological Sign: Leo

Favorite Food: Spaghetti, potatoes, bread, bagels, salmon

Favorite Color: Purple and Green

Occupation: Banker

Hobbies: Reading, playing videogames, napping, writing fanfiction

When did you start cosplay? I attended my first con in 2009, bought a Rukia Kuchiki cosplay and sword, and had the time of my life. The first cosplay I made myself was in 2010–creepy space mom Jenova. It’s taken over my life in the best way since then.

My favorite things about cosplay are the time I get to spend with my friends, and the new skills I learn with every outfit. I tend to fall for beautiful, elegant designs, so I try to incorporate those ideals into every outfit I made. I like to think I’m tough, but really I’m just a shy vanilla cream puff. Come talk about nerdy things with me!

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Photo by Naomi Leu Photography

GeekySeamstress here again! Almost as soon as  Cosmic Coterie  officially decided to tackle Madoka Magica for our big build this year, Koholint and I started brainstorming Madoka. We split the labor so that Koho took the upper half of Madoka and I took the lower half. I’ve followed several Madoka cosplayers over the years, and I was absurdly excited about making that ridiculous donut skirt.

The Petticoat


My first step in tackling my portion of Madoka was the petticoat. That giant donut skirt needed a support structure for the floof, so I turned to Jessie Pridemore‘s Madoka petticoat tutorial as a starting point. There are 10+ fabric layers total in the petticoat: 5 layers of chiffon circle skirts with serger-gathered satin ribbon ruffles, a layer of cotton crinoline, and 5 layers of gathered double-circle skirts made from tulle. There are also 120 yards of satin ribbon attached to the hem which also add to the overall fluffiness.



As Dani and I started leveling the hems, I realized I wasn’t getting the volume I wanted out of the petticoat, and I was worried the donut skirt would ultimately weigh the petticoat down. Koholint pointed me in the direction of some tutu research she’d done. Tutus layer shorter layers on top of longer layers to create a fuller silhouette, which was perfect for our needs. Plus, it was kind of a cool nod to the ballet inspiration behind Madoka!

Bulk at the waist was a major concern, especially since Dani has a fairly short torso and we needed the bodice to be snug, so I attached all the skirt layers to a short yoke with an elastic waistband (and some pink satin ribbon I had on hand just because).

The Donut Skirt


Fun fact: the original had so much bulk that I had to use pliers to pull my needle through.


Round 1

The donut skirt was way more of a challenge than I initially anticipated. I went back and forth on a couple of approaches, but ultimately wound up using The Dangerous Ladies guide to Madoka’s skirt as a starting point. I originally set out constructing it as a super long gathered rectangle on both the top and lining layers. I quickly realized this would create far too much bulk under the bodice. To counter this issue, I opted to just gather the fashion layer (underlined with tulle) and create a circle skirt lining. Both layers were attached via a waistband which went under the bodice. The gathered portions sat just beneath the bottom of the bodice. The skirt closes with a lapped zipper.


Getting there…

Figuring out an appropriate length for the fashion layer took some trial and error. Ultimately the fashion layer was about 3-4″ longer than the lining, which gave me room to stuff the skirt with extra tulle for that ridiculous puff.


Still trying to get that shape!

The ruffles on the skirt are made from 5″ bias cut peachskin. Since the magical girls in Madoka Magica don’t really have a uniform design, we decided to make sure we all had peachskin ruffles with rolled hems in our accent colors to bring a little uniformity to the designs. Koholint took care of the rolled hems, and I gathered them on my serger. The ruffles are sandwiched between the lining and fashion layers.


You can see me stuffing the crap out of that donut skirt in the top left! Bows and bodice by the crazy talented Koholint.

The Top Skirt



The pink top skirt was mostly handled by Victoria Bane. I drafted out the pink skirt based on the circle skirt we used for the petticoat and lining of the donut skirt. We had to remove a petal to get it to lay right on the donut skirt, so in hindsight, I would have drafted it as a 3/4 circle skirt instead.



Vickie airbrushed the white gradient onto the petals using Creatix paint and sewed up the skirt (side note: I’m still dying over how smooth that gradient is. Vickie rocks). The gems were scrapbooking stickers we found at Jo-Ann’s and glued on.


Other Pieces

Since the skirts are so ridiculously short, I made a quick set of bloomers using Colette’s free Madeline pattern. I kind of wish I’d added a higher waistband for these since they ride pretty low, but they do the job.

Dani’s stockings were generously donated by We Love Colors. To create the ruffles at the top of the stockings, I stitched some reject peachskin ruffles from Dani’s skirt onto elastic bands. We tried using 2″ ruffles for the skirt initially, but they were waaaaayyyy too short to show up properly. We added a little extra flair to the stocking ruffles by adding some leftover trim from Koholint’s fabric stash.

Final Thoughts

Despite the crazy amount of work that went into these skirts, I’m quite pleased with the final result. There are a few things that I’d go back and fix if I were doing it again (side-eyes spots with uneven gathers), but the silhouette is pretty damn nice.

Onto the next build!

Photos by Ash Snap Em Photography

Who’s your favorite character from Madoka? 

We love seeing what fellow Moonies put together using our tutorials and other resources! Here are fellow Moonies who have done an excellent job creating fukus with the help of our tutorials!

If you or your group has used our tutorials,let us know – we’d be thrilled to add your photo!

Hey everyone! Space Cadet here!
I’m pretty pumped to share with all of you what I did to make my Homura costume! Hopefully, it inspires others to make this costume as well.

Materials I used:
Kaufman Stretch Vera Sateen Wide in Lilac, Black, and White
JoAnn Peachskin Solid in white
Polyester Spandex in black and purple
Polyester Satin (matte) in purple
1/2″ double fold bias tape in black and white
1/4″ double fold bias tape in black
SF101 Shape-Flex interfacing by Pellon
Invisible zippers in black, white, and lilac
Black iron on vinyl
Wonder Tape
Wonder-Under Pellon 805R
1″ elastic
Fray Check
Matching thread

Soul gem by UniqueCosplayProps
Wig is a Venus Silky in Thistle by Arda Wigs and dyed gray using iDye Poly (dyed and cut by Victoria Bane)
Time Shield 3D print file by Subzerofusion, printed by Shapeways

The skirt is a basic box pleated skirt with 2″ pleats. I didn’t use a pattern or a tutorial for the skirt but there are a bunch out there on the internet to reference if needed.

Skirt Ruffles:
I used the peachskin here and did a rolled hem with a lilac thread to tie in with the other characters in our group. All of us used the same white peachskin fabric and a rolled hem in our respective character colors to have something to bring the costumes together in a simple way. I created the ruffles by first making continuous bias tape using this method. I then serged one end with the rolled hem with lilac thread. After that I made my life difficult and pleated the ruffles with 1″ box pleats.

In retrospect the pleated ruffles added a bunch of bulk in the skirt hem so I should have done regular gathering with the serger like the other girls did. LESSON LEARNED!


(unpressed skirt with ruffles)

Black Shirt:
For this shirt I used McCall’s 6124 and made alterations such as making a swayback alteration, nixing the buttons for an invisible zipper, drafting a different collar stand to attach the black collar to, and altering the sleeves. The black collar that I attached was a pattern I traced from Kiya’s old Homura costume collar (THANK YOU!!!).

The mitered corners on the bias binding and the diamond on the back of the collar was the learning curve for me and I used this tutorial for the inset mitered corners on the white shirt sleeves and reversed the technique for the regular mitered corners. I interfaced the top of the black collar and then added the diamond


(black shirt with practice collar and unpressed skirt)


(black collar)

White Shirt:
This shirt was created by using and altering the Simplicity 1779 pattern. I added a swayback alteration, altered the neckline, altered the sleeves, and removed the button closing in the front. I was going to add an invisible zipper in the front of this shirt but it was giving me a hard time with puckering and I was running out of time. I ended up stitching the front closed. I highly recommend using a zipper though since it is much easier to get on and off with one!

The bias binding on this shirt was the most difficult part with all of the mitered corners. The link to the tutorial I used for mitered corners is linked above in the black shirt section. On each sleeve, I added the diamond above the sleeve V by folding the edges of the diamond under, securing to the sleeve with Wonder Tape, and topstitched them down.


(white shirt sleeve bias binding detail)

Lilac Collar:
For the lilac collar, I drafted a pattern and cut two pieces from the lilac fabric. I interfaced one of the pieces and stitched the stripes to the right side of that piece. I used Wonder Tape to hold down the bias tape stripes while I stitched. I then sewed the right sides together of the two lilac collar pieces leaving a large opening in the neck, graded the corners, and turned it right-side out. Then it was attached to the collar of the white shirt. The approach was very similar to the black collar, minus the bias binding and no collar stand.


(top piece of lilac collar)

Leggings (aka “poots”/pant boots):
For the leggings, I used Kwik Sew’s K3636 pattern with a single seam on the inside of the legs. I extended the pattern down to my ankles and drafted a shoe cover pattern by wrapping the spandex around my base heel and getting it to where I had a single seam on the inside of the ankle and on the bottom of the shoe. I connected the shoe and legging patterns at the ankle and traced the mockup for a final pattern. I also marked the mockup where I wanted the diamonds to lay on the outside of the legs and transferred this in chalk to the leggings. Once each leg was cut out, I cut out diamonds in the same fabric as the leggings but in purple to place on the outside of each leg. I made sure to Fray Check the edges of each diamond. I used Wonder-Under to hold the diamonds down as I stitched using a stretch stitch and used stabilizer so my machine wouldn’t birds nest from the stretch fabric.

Once the diamonds were stitched down, I removed the stabilizer from the back, sewed the two legs together, and The Geeky Seamstress added the elastic waistband for me (THANK YOU!!!) while I worked on the bows.


(poots mockup with scrap spandex)


(stitching down the diamonds)


(stabilizer underneath the diamonds)


(poots leggie)

The last piece was the neck bow and back bow. I made the neck bow by making a 1″ tube and interfacing it with a 1″ strip in the bow loops. The tails were not interfaced so that they would move more freely. The neck bow tails were made by making a 1″ tube, sewing one end shut, and turning it right-side out. The back bow used 2″ bow loops that were also interfaced. The back bow tails were 2″ wide with a point at the end. I did not create a tube for the back bow tails but instead cut out 4 tail pieces, sewed right sides together, trimmed seam allowance, graded corners, and turned them inside out. The black designs on the back bow tails were added using iron-on vinyl once the tails were turned right-side out. I attached the tails to the bow loops by hand-stitching them to the back of the loops.

The bows were attached to the costume using a pin backing.


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  • Satin remnants
  • Sew-on snaps (larger is preferred here)
  • Sew-on Velcro
  • Hand sewing needles
  • Thread


Measure around your neck. This will be your choker length measurement. Our chokers are approximately 7/8” wide.



Cut a piece of fabric 3” wide by your desired length measurement, plus 2” for overlap.


Pro-tip: While not *strictly* necessary, interfacing is a great way to keep your choker crisp and neat between wears and all day long at cons! To add interfacing, cut a strip of interfacing about 7/8″ wide by your neck measurement.


With wrong sides together, stitch your fabric.


Trim down your seam allowance, then flip inside out.


Pro-tip: Stitch one end of your tube closed for an extra-clean finish!


Press your piece flat (a quilter’s pressing bar is useful here!).



Finish the edges of your choker, then hand stitch velcro or snaps to the ends.


Note: There are lots of ways to finish off the free ends of your tubes. You can serge them, turn them over and stitch down, or flip the ends under and hand or machine stitch them closed (demonstrated above)


Time to put it all together! To attach your bows and collar, grab your snaps and hand stitching needles. The collar should attach to the neckline point of the chest armor.





We use a combination of Velcro and snaps on our bows. Our bows are attached at the center with Velcro and snaps on the main bow. We also add snaps to the tails of our chest bows if the top ones don’t provide enough support. 


Tutorial text by The Geeky Seamstress. Photos by Koholint and Space Cadet Cosplay.

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Materials needed:

  • 1/2 yd of spandex or bias-cut satin (our blog post contains fabric sources!)
  • 1/2″ upholstery piping
  • Thread
  • Hand sewing needle
  • Gloves (We love We Love Colors for our gloves!)
  • Optional: conductive thread

Note: seam allowances are 1/2″ unless otherwise noted.


To create your glove rolls, get a piece of spandex that matches your satin, or cut a scrap piece of your satin on the bias (the stretchiest part of woven fabric). To come up with your measurements, take your piping and wrap it around your arm where you want the glove rolls to sit, then measure the piping. This is your fabric length, and should sit on the widest degree of stretch on your fabric. The width of your fabric should be approximately 8”.



If you are using satin, you will also need to press your seam.

Folding the wrong sides of your fabric together, stitch your fabric closed. Flip your fabric inside out to create a hot-dog shaped tube.


Position your seam to the center of your tube. This will be on the inside of your arm, so no one will see it. You can position it to be hidden by one of your channels if you’d like.

Grab your tailor’s chalk, and divide the final measurements of your tube into thirds. Mark and sew two stitching lines on your tube to create the channels for your piping.





Go ahead and get your piping filler. Cut 3 pieces long enough to wrap snugly around your forearm. Tape each end of the filler, as it tends to fray. Using the largest safety pin you can find, guide the piping through the channels.


Once your piping is encased evenly in the glove roll channels, gently peel back the ends. Get your hand needle and thread, and whip stitch the ends of your piping together. This will create a continuous loop so that there are no visible seam lines no matter which way you move your arms. Once all of your piping is sewn to itself, position your fabric over the piping. Using an invisible hand stitch, close your seams.


We use premade gloves from We Love Colors and cut them to the length that works for each senshi. Once our rolls are sewn and gloves are cut to the right length, whip stitch your glove rolls to the top of the gloves. Add some conductive thread to your fingertips for phone usage in costume!


Thanks to NyuNyu cosplay for her tutorial on glove rolls! We used it as a springboard for these with some alterations.

Tutorial text/photos by The Geeky Seamstress and Koholint.