There are several ways to make hip rolls based on your skill level and preference. Some of the most common methods include folded over quilt batting, polyfill, upholstery cording, and upholstery foam. The majority of our fukus incorporate upholstery foam, so that is the method we’ll be discussing in this tutorial.
Also, please note that this is the 2016 version of our process. For a cleaner hip roll and more comprehensive tutorial, please check out our Patreon!
- 1/2″ upholstery foam
- White spandex (scraps from your leotard should work!)
- Optional: Serger
How to Assemble Your Hip Rolls:
Select a piece of ½” wide white foam. Measure your high hip measurement to determine the length of your hip roll. Cut a single piece of foam that is 4-5” wide by the hip length. Wider hip rolls are more flattering on fuller figures, and smaller hip rolls look better on smaller figures. Proportions are key!
Cut a piece of spandex the same width and length.
Fold your foam in half (like a hot dog bun) and wrap your spandex around the foam. Get every sewing pin you own and pin that hot dog like your life depends on it.
Once your foam/spandex sandwich is thoroughly pinned, flip it over, and machine baste it, taking care to avoid puckers. The top side of your foam should be nice and smooth, so flipping your piece over gives you access to the fabric most likely to bunch.
Once your foam is basted, mark the taper of your hip roll using a water-soluble pen or tailor’s chalk. We start our taper 3” from the point of the hip roll. If you have access to a serger, use your marked line and basting stitch as a guide and serger the edge of your hip roll. If you do not have access to a serger, line up the aforementioned line with the edge of your sewing foot and stitch. Go over the seam allowance with a zig-zag stitch and trim the excess foam and spandex.
Next up: Connecting your leotard pieces!
Tutorial text/photos by The Geeky Seamstress